Sunday 13th January 1985
Arrived in Haifa, Israel at around 7.30am after an extremely enjoyable crossing. I got to know and love Dinah, who I spent most of my voyage with. Explored Rhodes by myself and found my way into the castle by going through a partly hidden entrance and climbing the first 15-20 steps (in a tower) in pitch black. It was well worth it though because from the top of the turret I got a great view of the town. Most nights there was a sing song around a talented guitar player (who knew quite a few Neil Young songs) and it wasn't cold underneath the blue shelter (tarpaulin) on the top deck. Yesterday we stopped at Limassol for 4 hours; the town was grotty compared with Rhodes. I accompanied my 3 Norwegian friends to a church where I was amazed to see the worshipers going round kissing all the pictures! Next, as the Norwegian couple wanted to head back to the ship long before necessary, I led the way into a Cypriot version of an English pub. After much discussion and deliberation over the state of the drachma compared with the Cypriot pound - helped by a Scottish bloke at the bar, the two Norwegian girls and myself sat down with just one beer between the 3 of us (100 drachs a bottle - 70p) but the Scottish blokes, on seeing 2 attractive women not drinking, bought another 2 bottles in spite of the blank response they got from the girls. After 5 minutes, Dinah and myself were left alone as the other Norwegian girl didn't drink or smoke(!!!), and went back to the boat. Left Limassol with no desire to return. Last night I did an extra special soup for the two of us, there was a party atmosphere (inc. the cheese 'n' bread song!) but I got very little sleep largely due to a disco playing Hi Ho silver lining* and Auld Lang Syne* over and over, and my own reflections after a wander round the deck where the moon on the sea was a magnificent sight - plus shooting star. I must have slept from 3 until 6, when it was time to get my possessions together. I was a bit apprehensive going through Israeli customs with only £45 English money and drachmas, which seem to be worthless outside Greece and not worth much inside the country, but there was no hassle. After getting badly ripped off for 3 coffees, Dinah and I caught the bus to Tel Aviv. She was going straight to Elat so I fondly kissed her farewell and after a nightmare bus ride, arrived at the Green House Hostel, but I've yet to find out whether it will become my temporary abode due to lack of management.
* You tube video
Monday 14th January 1985
I now have a place on (a) Moshav, which I shall go to tomorrow. Didn't have a very good night's kip last night because in the bed next to mine there was a very effeminate bloke who started moaning in the middle of the night, despite my telling him to shut up. I've now moved to Darrel's Happy Hostel, closer to the centre of Tel Aviv (and) with a better atmosphere.
Tuesday 15th January 1985
Darrel's was a good hostel; cheaper and with a better atmosphere that the Green House. This morning I caught the bus from Tel Aviv to my Moshav at Idan. I caught the wrong bus by accompanying an Australian girl, which meant a 5km walk across the desert. The bloke I'm working for was waiting at the bus stop and he seems a good bloke. He cooked food for me and I've moved into a room with 2 people that I reckon I will be able to get on well with for the next few weeks.
Saturday 26th January 1985
Been at the Moshav for close on 2 weeks now. Work 6 days a week and get very pissed the night before my day off. There was a disco at the bomb shelter bar on the last of these nights (Wednesday last). There was a minor party in our room first with beer bottles and volunteers getting smashed, then briefly to room 5 before hitting the disco. I walked in trying to keep a low profile (I'd heard an entrance fee mentioned), was there 3 seconds before I dropped a full beer bottle on the ground! It was a good night, well, what I can remember of it was. The bottle of vodka I drunk (sic) made sitting on the plastic drum 'stools' impossible. I fell off my seat at least 3 times! Apparently, after knocking some more beers over I was helped back to my room by Rob and Glen.
My second night on the Moshav was spent enjoying a candle lit dinner with the girls in Room 5. After food, to the bar with Carmela and Tracey. Work is hard but all the easier because I like Moritzio, the farmer I work for, and respect him for working at least as hard, and often faster than I do. Last night I went for a meal with Lynn, the other volunteer working for Moritzio, at his house. It was a scrumptious 3 course meal with a good discussion afterwards. Then to the bar until 2.10am chatting with Chris, Shane and a Canadian girl. Was up this morning at ¼ to 7 for work.
Monday 28th January 1985
I've done tomato picking for the last 2 days, just me and Moritzio. The day after my last entry was the worst so far; planting melon seeds (3hrs non-stop bent double), then following the tractor shoring up the sides of the plastic cloches. I've become friends with a German girl, but regretfully she's leaving on Wednesday. Tonight she brought round some home-made pizza, I gave her the tomatoes and the results were delicious. I think I'll get drunk tonight for a change - that's if I don't owe the bar too many beers.
Sunday 3rd February 1985
Nearly 3 weeks worked on the Moshav, (and) they have flown by. Moritzio has pulled a muscle in his knee, so I now do all the tractor driving and work with Rhona (his wife) and Lynn. Without Moritzio the pace has slowed dramatically - no longer frantic - but my hours have increased (7am - 6.30pm on average). Outside work, there's one disco a week and apart from that the bar's seldom open.
Sunday 10th February 1985
Both Rob and Glen have now left Idan, Rob by choice (and), Glen sacked after walking off the tomato field. Nightlife has been quiet apart from the Wednesday night discos. I stayed at the bar until 5 past 4am after the last one and was woken by Moritzio at ten past 7. Friday and the 3 days before I was working with 5 Israeli friends of Moritzio. They were good people, laughing, joking and dancing between the rows of tomatoes. (Later) Rhona cooked up another delicious Shabbat meal, then yesterday I cycled to a petrol station/cafe, met John, Glen, Scott, Mike, Adi and Chris, and spent the day drinking beers + vodka. We all got drunk then I broke up a fight starting between Chris and a bus driver (who apparently pulled a knife), then cycled back, visited the girls in Room 5 then hit the hay. This morning I felt like death cooled down and picked ultra-slow for the morning session.
Monday 18th February 1985
Time has hammered past on the Moshav, people have left and new ones arrived and I've had a 3 day holiday in Jerusalem. I set off on Thursday morning with Kai, a German girl I've got to like a lot. We walked to the main rd (and) met Gus, Craig, Avril and another. Kai and I stayed on the bus 'till Beersheva, she went off to visit her old Kibbutz while I caught a bus to Jerusalem, booked into (the) Mr A's hostel then started exploring the old city. After 10mins. I heard my name; it was Shane and Adi; I went to their hostel to surprise John then returned to Mr A's. There I was told the place shut at 8pm! (Then) I went to the bar where I'd arranged to meet my fellow 'Idaners'. Left after many a beer to get my sleeping bag, determined not to go to bed before I was ready, returned to the Open Sesame bar and got more drunk then left at 11 for the hostel Shane &co were staying at. Had (an) argument with the owner, then left for Mr A's, it was pouring with rain so after using the door as a drum for 15mins I clambered up the wall from window shade to shade - 20ft, across the roof and jumped down to get to my bed at midnight. Next day I moved to the Tobasco, it was raining again so I was resting on the bed when who should walk in but Mike & Chris from the Moshav. Went to (the) bar then next day got chased out of the church of the Holy Sepulchre by a monk with a big stick! We were killing time until our bus left so we went to see the church. There was this wooden shrine in the middle of the main hall (and) I was moseying round it when I spotted this monk in a little cubby hole, he invited me in and told me to touch this step, which I did to humour him, then he gave me a piece of paper with a flower & prayer on it (and a small wooden cross) and asked me for a donation. I told him I was skint so he took back his cross and prayer and I left to explain the incident to puzzled Mike 'n' Chris. We continued to explore the church, went down some steps and were looking at some pictures when a monk came up to us and shouted something about the mosaic we were standing on. He followed us, still ranting and raving, (so) we went up the stairs, but decided to return to see the rest of the church. When the monk saw us again he had another fit then went & picked up a rod the size of a barge pole and brandished it at us - I thought it was time to leave the church! Returned to the Open Sesame after walking up to the Dome of the Rock & Wailing Wall then made our way to the bus station. I cooked soup, got the bus to Beershiva at 6pm then after numerous attempts to phone Moritzio we resigned ourselves to the 6 hour wait for the bus to Idan. Managed some sleep on a bench, arrived (at the) end of the road at 3am, had to climb the main gate*, slept at 4 until 6, when it was time to go to work.
*This was no mean feat because the Moshav was constructed like military base encircled by a high wire fence.
Thursday 14th March 1985
Coming up to 2 months here. I've been sacked and unsacked for missing a day after a party. Purim was good, in fact I shall go into more detail........
Wednesday 6th March 1985
Purim is an annual festival during which it is socially acceptable for Jewish people to do what the volunteers do all the time i.e. wear silly costumes and get drunk. I made a strange mask, cut a pair of jeans to make dreadlocks and wore a tablecloth. Had a laugh with Scots Mike, who used my felt (tipped) pen to draw a Graucho Marx face then found that it was indelible ink and he'd still have blue eyebrows & (mous)tache the next day in Elat! It was a good party with lots of people in fancy dress, left at 2am.
Thursday 7 March 1985
Went to work at ten to 7, was alone in the valley until 10 but was the only volunteer there all day. Finished at 12.30, showered, packed my rucksack and was able to get a lift to the bus stop. Caught the Jerusalem bus at 3.30. The Dead Sea was beautiful, with lumps of salt floating in it and at one point perfectly reflecting the mountains and hotels on the shore. I'd arranged to meet Kai at the Open Sesame at 6 but a bus driver told me his bus went to the old city then drove miles away. Got a taxi, meeting Kai at 7. We stayed for the 'happy hour' then booked into the Tobasco and returned again to meet Jane from (the) Moshav.
Friday 8th March 1985
After making coffee, we went in search of Dire Straits tickets, were disappointed to find they wouldn't be available 'till the end of the month, booked out tickets back, (then) back to the old city where we ate some sweet, savoury of Arab derivation and met Terry and Josey (Lynn's roommates) in a shop. We had to get an Arab bus to Bethlehem, which was an experience in itself. The bus was very old and it was weird to see the driver hunched over the wheel in Arab headdress. Bethlehem was a tourist trap of the worst kind i.e. King David and Jesus Cinema & Good Shepherd's Store. We went in to see the place where Jesus was meant to be born then walked out of the town a bit and rested on a peaceful hillside with a great view. Came across a detachment of the Ghanan army a couple of times, took a look at the 'Milk Grotto' then after coffee caught a much less interesting bus back to Jerusalem. Walked around the city and made an unsuccessful attempt to find the Holy Sepulchre again, then back to the Open Sesame where the atmosphere was a bit heavy with a very loud Irishman sat to Kai's right. Before the Sesame, we tried Champs Bar but neither of us liked it much - too loud, brash and winebarish. We found we'd both moved rooms at the Tobasco, Kai had a room to herself so I moved in with her. Got a brill pizza from an Arab bakery!
Saturday 9th March 1985
Our last day in Jerusalem. After some bread and choc. spread, and witnessing an apparent heart attack, we walked around the walls of the old city, toured the Holy Sepulchre and climbed the Mount of Olives to watch the sun go down over Jerusalem.
Back to the Tobasco, I did one of my 'stewps'* then we set off for the Israel Museum where '1984' was being shown. I lost my way so to get us there on time we took a taxi. Film was good, after(wards) we made our way back to the Sesame and were the last two to leave (the bar).
*A combination of stew and soup cooked up by Viv on his portable petrol stove.
Sunday 10th March 1985
After coffee we were a few minutes late to get into the Dome of the Rock, so we made our way to the bus station. There I met the Australian girl who accompanied me on the bus journey from Tel Aviv to Idan (See January 15th). From the bus stop at the main road we walked for 10 minutes before hitching a lift in a lorry which dropped us off right outside my front door.
Monday 11th March 1985
Kai's birthday; was invited round for onion cake and party in Room 6 then to the bar 'till 2am. Next day I cooked her a spaghetti bolognese. 'Star Trek' was the film on the next night, and tonight (the 14th) it's an early night for me as I was at the bar 'till 4.30am yesterday.
Friday 29th March 1985
Time has flown by once again. I've been sacked and rehired in the same day, picked thousands of tomatoes and now I'm running the Moshav Bar. Thursday before last I took a day trip to Elat, met Chris & John and spent a relaxing day on the beach. Many friends have left the Moshav but some good people have arrived and work has got easier now that it is no longer the interminable tomatoes.
Friday 5 April 1985
Last week has been a good one, disco Wednesday night, which went well, with me behind the bar until 2.30am. Today I am in Netanya. I have 4 days off for Passover so am doing some sightseeing in the north of Israel. I got a lift here with Moritzio and family. Caught a train to Akko*, a walled crusader port. Lack of sleep accumulated over the last 2 weeks at Idan began catching up on me, dozed on the beach just outside the old city then booked in(to) the youth hostel. I planned to see some of the nightlife but went to bed at 5pm, woke at 10pm, then slept through 'till 8.
* Called 'Acre' in English.
Saturday 6th April 1985
Set off walking along the coast north of Akko, sun shone, stopped and sat on the fortifications overlooking the impressive sea wall and reef, walked further and found a beautiful lagoon, sunbathed and collected shells for a couple of hours then continued north to Nahariya. The coast is the most unclean I've seen in all my travels, most of it looked like a rubbish tip and some of it actually was. I came to the conclusion it was a deliberate ploy by the Isrealis. If the PLO landed by boat, they'd forget about invading and start sorting through the junk! Was unimpressed by Nahariya so got (a) bus back to Akko then another to Safat*. Total contrast to the Israel I've seen so far, in the mountains overlooking the Sea of Galillee. I've booked into a youth hostel which is exorbitant (7 grand) but as I'm not equipped to doss and I've earnt my hols who cares!
* Called 'Safed' in English.
Monday 8th of April 1985
I am now sat on the beach at Tel Aviv in the sun contemplating a swim, I went to the cinema on my night in Zefat (see Saturday 6th April 1985) - 'Greystoke' was an average film with good make-up effects. Had some hassle when the chambermaid discovered an Isreali Youth Hostel blanket that I'd lifted from Akko, but nothing that some fast talking couldn't put right. I donated (it) to Zefat Y.H. in the end! From there to Tiberius, was unimpressed so moved to Nazareth, which I nearly missed by talking with a Swedish girl on the bus. Next stop, Tel Aviv. Booked into Darrel's hostel then to the Gypsie Bar, few beers then went to see 'Metropolis' at the flicks, it's a brilliant film, I sat in the front row and was mesmerized for 2 hours. After the film I went back to the 'Gypsie', sat in a corner savouring my beer and next thing I was being seduced by an attractive Israeli girl. We had virtually nothing to talk about as she couldn't speak English nor me Hebrew but body language did the trick. Made my way back to Darrel's in the early hours, had to wake someone up to let me in and now I'm skint and enjoying the beach until my bus back to Idan departs.
Thursday 11th April 1985
Cycled out to Ovot Springs* again, failed to turn the water on so returned.
* This was an Artesian well in the middle of the desert, where, if you knew how, you could release a fountain of underground water from a pipe.
Thursday 17th April 1985
Bussed & hitched to Dead Sea, floated & returned meeting Danish girls en route.
Thursday 25th April 1985
Lynn has left and I've been sacked again! This is how it happened....................................
last Tuesday I went to the bar early 'cos it was Remembrance Day, and on the way back to my room met Barbara, I thought there was a party somewhere, enquired where, and was told Room No. 1 - my room. Returned to find just 4 people there, Tim and Carolla arrived then a steady stream of people until the room was packed (21 people). Tatoo John arrived, Carolla and Anna played guitar and everyone got smashed, I fell unconscious around 2 (?) (question mark in the original diary). Was meant to work at 7 but was not compos mentis. Woke at 11, went round to Moritzio's (and) was fired, which this time I accepted without batting an eyelid*. Returned, did a deal with T. John and spent the rest of the day laid back, arranged the where with all for a disco that night, did a tour of the Ghetto**, then back to being bar tender for the last time. It was a good night (foot long spliff), danced and cuddled with Marie 'till 5, was up at 9 hoping that the cassette player still worked - I was threatened with hanging if it didn't - it did. Today is Independence Day, there was a barbecue, now I must get some sleep to be in form for my last night.
* The previous time I'd been sacked for not being able to get up in time for work, I had to beg for my job back because I didn't have enough money saved to get home again, and this pissed me off because in the past, I'd worked extra hours when Moritzio had injured his knee (see Sunday 3rd February 1985) and felt that I deserved some slack.
** The nickname for the row of small flats where the volunteers lived.
Friday 26th April 1985
Said 'adieu' to good friends, hugs from Canadian Janet, Jo Anne & Barbara; last trip to No. 9b, last J by the fire with Laurent, Anna & Derek, sang 'Anarchy in the UK' & 'God save the Queen', then next morning went to see Rhona. Walked out of Idan, meaning I had to get a lift to the bus stop to get a bus in time to catch the bank in Beersheva. Met two attractive Israeli girls at the stop (a car gave me a lift with 10mins. to spare!) then the bus sailed straight past us full. A bit later the girls hitched a UN car, the 3 of us climbed aboard, we speeded off, I was given a beer and cigarette, overtook the bus and were dropped off where the road splits to the Dead Sea. The bus arrived again after a while and this time we climbed on. Got to the bank 10mins. before it shut for Shabbat then came to Jerusalem, booked into Tobascos and got very drunk in the Open Sesame. On returning to the hostel the police were in with some girls who had been robbed, had one beer over the 8 and crashed, spluttering my way up the stairs.
Saturday 27 - Tuesday 30th April 1985
Woke late and spent a quiet day buying bits & pieces for the voyage to Greece, souvenirs etc. Got an early night and left Jerusalem at 10am next morning. Arrived (in) Haifa at 12.30 not knowing when the boat sailed or even if it had already done so. Departure time as it turned out was 8pm (officially!). Met and boarded with Shiela, got (a) pleasant surprise at customs where I was expecting a heavy fine and/or Israeli stamp (in my passport), got past without either. There are far more people on the 'Sol Phrayne' this time but a good atmosphere just the same. Met Lynn, Bee and John from Idan and enjoyed Limassol yesterday - trip round the castle and back to the church where the picture kissing was going on as it was outward bound (see Sunday 13th January 1985). Due to stop in Rhodes in a bit, look(ing) forward to returning to the land of retsina, suvlaki, ouzo and drachs!
