Sunday 9th September 1984
Had a quiet day. It pissed down in the night and I had fears for the gear I'd stashed by the river (in Cahors). Next day was fine though. Found out my train ticket could take me all the way to Spain!!
Monday 10th September 1984
Checked out the grape picking situation (from a tourist office), which didn't look hopeful, then got the train to Lezignan. Arrived at about 6.30pm, was walking towards the town centre when I came face to face with the old guy who hired me for the first job on the grapes last year. Had no time though for more than a surprised 'bonjour' before he'd passed me. Kipped in a great doss place on a landing (at the) top of some stairs in the park (in the) centre of Lezignan.
Tuesday 11th September 1984
Park keeper was quite annoyed next morning when he arrived to water the grass, especially as there were about 7 English people kipping in an empty fountain, too.
Visited the Maison des Jeunes et de la culture (MJC) and got depressing news about the chances of work, so I decided to head further south. Was just cooking dinner outside the park when Paulo and his wife and kid happened by. It was great to meet both of them. Left Lezignan at around 5pm. When I got to Perpignan, (the) first priority was to find a place to doss. Walked about 2 miles with things looking very unhopeful, then came across a block of flats with loads of indentations. Recovered the jam I'd been cursing myself for losing, walked round the back of the flats and found the perfect place - a covered foyer with no doors or windows. Prepared for bed and was just having a last fag when a black dog wandered around the corner and started barking at me. I decided to just hit sack and ignore it, but no chance. The dog was followed by a middle-aged bloke who asked me what nationality I was. He obviously didn't take an instant dislike to me 'cos he invited me into his flat where he and two sons and an old friend were drinking wine and eating bread & pate. Spent a pleasant evening at their table drinking wine and chatting 'till early in the morning. Slept back in the foyer content with new-found friends.
Authors note: Reading this diary entry nearly 30 after the events took place, it's refreshing to see that the irrational mutual dislike and suspicion which so often occurs between the French and English, does not always apply, and many French people, especially older adults, still recognise that the number of British men and women who lost their lives in an attempt to liberate France in the last two World Wars, overshadows the number of those lost in previous wars between the two countries.
Wednesday 12th September 1984
Woke to blazing sunshine, my railway guard friend (from the night before) invited me in for coffee, croissants and jam, then his son gave me a lift to the employment office in his Volkswagen. He enquired on my behalf about grape work without success. From there I said 'adieu' and headed to a 'clinique' and asked if they'd take my stitches out*. I was told to return after dinner, so I went to a park, wrote some postcards then returned and my stitches were removed. Moseyed around for pm, then went to the Auberge des Jeunes (Youth Hostel) and booked in for the night. A couple of English (guys) gave me a beer (and) had a worse night's kip than on the road due to someone with a horrible snore and a 20 stone Spaniard on the bunk above mine.
*See Tuesday 4th September 1984
Thursday 13th September 1984
Breakfast was at 7.30, I got some clothes washed and was outside cooking up some soup when an interesting-looking woman arrived. Offered her some soup, we chatted for a while and next thing, me and Cristina were hitching off towards Carnet Plage, the nearest beach to Perpignan. We spent the afternoon sun bathing (and) drinking beer and wine. We were able to hitch back in time to retrieve our (ruck)sacks, which were left at the hostel. Christina introduced me to Kiki, a beautiful Danish girl. Spent a very happy evening chatting with 2 attractive women and some other interesting 'aubergers' - a clown included. Christina went to bed early; I headed up at about 11 and went straight to the women's section and attempted to in Kiki's room, but as the auberge was antiquated rule-wise, I was directed to the men's side where I spent a second nightmarish night. The atmosphere was stifling with the window shut, and with it open, the noise of lorries going along the main road outside made sleep near impossible. Finally, exhaustion took over at about 3.30 the next day.
Friday 14th September 1984
Was up, washed and down for breakfast bright and early, then set off for the railway station where Christina had heard the patrons* would be arriving looking for pickers. Met Kiki en route and she joined me later. The 3 of us stayed the morning. The patrons arrived alright, but they were looking for Spaniards with contracts. Christina and I decided to jump trains away from Perpignan - a decision made all the easier by a totally depressed and depressing German who attached himself to us.
We took the TALGO to Narbonne without hitch, then hitched to Beziers with no more than a 15 min. wait. We got further downers from the ANPE employment office and Grape Propaganda office - no work, then as me and Christina were walking dejectedly through the town centre, we came across a jazz band playing away. Always a good sign, then I left Chris looking after my gear and set off for the MJC. Was directed to a cooperative where a very helpful woman photocopied the cooperative addresses (local) and gave me a bottle of wine for free. Rejoined Christina greatly perked up, I got my petrol cooker going then we hit town, which was as dead as a doornail. After a beer in an unfriendly cafe, we went to the railway station and found an empty carriage to spend the night.
* This is 'boss' in French.
Saturday 15th September 1984
We were joined by Kiki next day, who had got the interrail ticket through she was waiting for. Had more hopes dashed when they announced over the tannoy that patrons would be arriving to collect pickers, but it was a repeat of Perpignan - contract holders only.
While we were on the platform, a bloke advised us to go to Avignon where the best work lay. Kiki and Christina decided to head there, whilst I wanted to return to Lizignan, where my best chance seemed to lie. We had a last mosey round Bezier & breakfast, then I kissed them both goodbye and hopped on a train bound for Narbonne, arranging to meet them at Avignon railway st. (on) Monday at 6pm if neither of us found work.
I arrived at Lezignan and started cooking grub at (the) same place as before. Pigs arrived and told me the harvest was over and to go to Narbonne. I moved out of sight, finished supper, then was heading for the park when a car hooted and stopped - it was Raymond, who hired me for the second job last year. He also said the grapes were finished, which I couldn't understand. Then I made the mistake of mentioning where I was planning to kip in front of the customers of a cafe. Scouted around for a better place, then settled on the park. I was really tired and must have been asleep for an hour when I woke up and saw someone standing 2ft away from me, 2 steps down. Before I had any chance to move, he grabbed the bottom of my sleeping bag and dragged it - with me in it - down the flight of steps and started to punch me in the face. I was more surprised than anything else; I made 3 or 4 half groans, half exclamations, then he and his 3 mates wandered off saying a sarcastic goodbye as they went. I was left to gather my belongings, count my bruises and stop my nose bleeding. I quickly got my gear together and moved to a dry drainage ditch where I quickly fell asleep with my knife open and in hand.
Sunday 16th September 1984
After a brief stop at the MJC. where a Spanish bloke said he may be able to get me work, I set off for Conilhac. Got an unrequested lift and met Silvi, Mr Azaise and his wife. They were unable to give me work, but the patron said that he'd ring the MJC. on Wednesday if anything turned up. Spent the night in a disused wind pump, but after a trek to Conilhac to get water, I walked into an iron crossbar and came very close to blinding myself. It drew blood in a line from the bridge of my nose to the corner of my left orbit. Crashed thinking that I was in more danger from my own stupidity than the thugs in Lezignan.
Monday 17th September 1984
Walked to Lezignan and spent the morning in the workless depression of the MJC, then go the train to Narbonne on the way to fulfil my rendezvous (see 15th Sept.); got to Avignon on my Montpellier ticket. Kiki and Christina were nowhere to be seen, but then I only half-expected to see them anyway. Went into the city, then was making my way into the station when I spotted a man heading towards me in a determined manner. I ignored him, but he called me over and offered me a job picking tomatoes for 30 francs a day, food and lodging included. I accepted, was shown to a minivan and met Mike and Bernie for the first time. We were joined by Patric and Bruno - 2 French blokes then driven to a field, not far from Sarrians, and given a huge meal. Spent the night in an old hay cart, which was to become home for a week; it did the trick giving shelter, but there was no light.
Tuesday 18th to Friday 21st September 1984
Picking tomatoes was back-breaking work grovelling in the dirt, food was outstanding and the gypsies - one of them a convicted armed bankrobber and ex-junkie, on the whole friendly. Bernie offered to try and get me work in exchange for £55 of my wages, which I agreed to. The last day was a very laid back afternoon, spent throwing tomatoes at each other then, when Bijou returned, he took us back to work again. On the Thursday afternoon we were working away when a bus load of Gendarmes arrived, surrounded us and made us empty out our rucksacks in front of them, then carefully checked our passports. We finished work and they returned and inspected the soles of our feet for some obscure reason.
Saturday 22nd September 1984
The Saturday we were paid the grand sum of 112 francs (about £10) and given a lift to Sarrians ('we' now refers to me, Mike and Bernie). The 3 of us had an extravagant breakfast (after Bernie threw an off Camembert on the pavement outside the shop that sold it to him and wouldn't give him a refund). Then we arranged to meet in the town of Carpentras, to which I walked (8km) and the others hitched.
We met at the post office, then me and Bernie went and bought some Espadrilles, and I picked up some maps while Mike was entertained by 3 Carpentras down and outs!
We then walked to a nearby supermarket - the 'Casino', bought some goods, then on the way out, Bernie suggested using the trolleys to wheel our bags to a good's yard we planned to use as a shelter for the night. We were no more than 100 yds from the Casino when 2 supermarket attendants came up to us and told us we couldn't take the trolleys. We politely told them that (it) was alright and started to remove our bags, then things got out of order as a passing police car stopped and a racist Gendarme dismounted and went right over the top, pushing us back towards the market, unwilling to listen to any attempt at an explanation. He hit Bernie and when we got to the Casino, it was time to empty out our rucksacks again, which created quite a spectacle for the locals. After closely scrutinizing our passports, he pointed down the road and said "Avignon's that direction, go, and if you come back there'll be trouble". We walked until we found an old wrecked house, I did some food, Mike made some candles and we got reasonable night's kip despite me worrying Bernie by creeping out to relieve myself in the wee hours.
Sunday 23rd September 1984
We split up to hitch back to Sarrians. I walked to Monteux, found a prime hitching place by a level crossing and who should walk past but Mike and Bernie! I got fed up of hitching, so went to a bar for a beer, got some card to make a sign, then pretty soon got a lift, passing Mike and Bernie on the way. We met up again in the village square and were soon surrounded by curious locals. Met two girls who we chatted with for some time, then set off for the tomato picking site, gathering assorted veg. on the way. Spent the night in a farm shack that seemed to abound with mosquitos, but I escaped unbitten.
Monday 24th September 1984
Walked to Sarrians where we were met and transported to Beaumes de Venise by Andrew's wife, Liz. I was most impressed by the living conditions at the "Batcave", hot water, fridge, oven, shower and washing machine. We got food stocked up, then started work in the afternoon.
Tuesday 25th September to Tuesday 9th October 1984
First session of work was, on the whole, a monotonous existence broken by games of jacks*, bonus*, Whist and trips to Codec**. I took a couple of solo treks into the mountains. Firstly, a visit to the Chateau at Le Barroux via La Roque Alric, a beautiful village perched on the side of a rock pinnacle, trouble was the weather was foul, so visibility was virtually nil. Later, I walked up into the mountains near Beaumes on a lovely sunny day. Did a bit of climbing and enjoyed the magic view. During work, the patron's wife took an instant dislike to me, Mike and Bernie, and Bern and I got a public warning for talking on the lines. Andy gave the 3 of us, plus his sister and her fiancée a lift to Bedoin to see 'The life of Brian'.
* card games ** supermarket
Wednesday 10th to Saturday 13th October 1984
This was a holiday break. I took a walk to see the chateau ruins, the 3 of us hitched in tandem to Carpentras, then me and Mike attempted to get to the grottos at Thouzon. We got one lift to a town, Pernes-les-fontaines, half-way there, then abandoned the journey in favour of a bottle of wine, Camembert & bread. Hitched back to Carpentras where we spent the night in a bar playing pinball and attempting to get drunk. Started the walk back to Beaumes and got a lift to within ½km. Before this, Bernie & I walked to Sarrians and met the same two girls in the main bar (see 23rd September). Got some foraging done and arranged to meet them the following Saturday (6th Oct.). I walked / hitched there by myself and had a great night getting bevied and chatting with the youth of Sarrians. Got one lift to the main nightclub in the area, and attempted to get in, but couldn't afford the fee and gate crashing with a cabbage under my arm wasn't on. Staggered back to Beaumes and had to climb over the gates as I'd bee3n locked out.
Saturday 13th October 1984
Andy gave Mike and me a lift to the bottom of Mont Ventoux, (and) after a search for mushrooms in which I was quite successful, we started the long haul to the top, collecting a praying mantis on the way.
We didn't get to the top until about 5pm. Mike was shagged, view brilliant, then started hitching down. Got my first lift on a mountainside from a van with a couple of great people. Trouble was they were camping ½ way down, so we had another walk before another car stopped which gave us a lift to Malaucene. Walked again, lift to Le Barroux and walked the last 8 kilometres to Beaumes. Mantis survived, but both me and Mike were fit for nothing except food - all I'd eaten was a bowl of porridge and camembert butty, not a lot for a 2,000m climb!
Sunday 14th October 1984
Did nothing but sunbathe + play cards.
Monday 15th October 1984
Resumed work. Me & Bernie got a lift to Carpentras, where I bought a ticket to U2. Andy treated us to beers in a cafe.
Tuesday 16th October 1984
Got the blow that we would finish work (on) Thursday or Friday.
Thursday 18th October 1984
Last morning's work. Bernie & I got a lift to Carpentras with Liz, only to find (that) all (the) U2 tickets (had) sold out. That night we went to Aubignan and had a great night in a bar playing French billiards, pinball and table football. Got quite drunk then walked back to Beaumes at about 12.30am.
Friday 19th October 1984
Woke late, showered, then the 3 of us hitched (leapfrogged) to Carpentras. Split up there to hitch to Avignon. I got one short lift, spotted Mike, asked the guy to stop, but he not only stopped, but dropped me off! Mike and I got the bus and met Bernie at Avignon station. We tried to find the Magic Bus office without success, then bunked* to Marseille; I thought I'd been caught when someone shoulder-barged the toilet door, but luckily it was a passenger. We got the metro to St. Just to find U2 were playing in a marquee. It got very hectic outside with cars pushing through the crowd and getting rocked from side-to-side. I came close to getting run over, so Bernie and I left to find a bar (Mike & Bernie still hadn't got tickets to the show). Mike joined us and riled the barman by attempting to go straight to the bog and cursing when questioned. M & B left to get tickets, which they were successful in doing, and we met (again) in another bar. Walked to the venue when it started raining hard. Me and Bernie handed in our tickets and dashed to the tent only to find Mike hadn't got through. It turned out he'd lost his ticket in the ½ hour since buying it!
The atmosphere inside was electric. When U2 came on I got within 6 lines of the front and spent a great hour pogoing like a looney. Then with sweat dripping off me I forged my way to the side and rested for a while. The band played 3 encores, they also played 'Sunday, Bloody Sunday'***, 'In the name of love', 'I will follow' - magic music.
By coincidence I met Bernie outside, we walked to the metro station and just inside the door, flat on his back with one eye ½ open we found Mike fast asleep**. The 3 of us then returned to Marseille and jumped trains back to Avignon. We were able to find an empty carriage to doss in, but with only a jumper & cagoule plus mosquito and cold, it was a pretty bad night's kip. A guard got on at about 5.30am and told us the train would be leaving for Montpellier so we transferred to the waiting room.
* "jumped trains" - this involved getting on a train and hiding until the ticket collector had passed.
** He'd missed the show and fallen asleep in the metro station. He was able to sleep with one eye half-open, which is an excellent 'safety measure' if you decide to fall asleep late at night on a bench in a metro station in Marseille!
*** You Tube video
Saturday 20th October 1984
Caught bus back to Carpentras and started to walk back to Beaumes, I met Bernie and was just having a morning ciggy when a car stopped which eventually took all 3 of us right to Beaumes. Rest of the day was given over to sleep and sunbathing.
Sunday 21st October 1984
Mike got our washing done, which made the patron's wife irate. Last day in Beaumes was relaxing and building up for take off.
Monday 22nd October 1984
Woke at 7.30 due to faulty alarm, got packed and said 'adieu' to Mike and Bernie, who got a lift to the motorway for the return to Britain. I cleared up the batcave, emptied the habitat* then, after saying 'goodbye' to the old boot, Andy gave me a lift to Avignon. From there I jumped what I thought was a train to Nice, but it turned out to be a train to Lyon. Got off at Vaucluse, about 80 miles in the wrong direction, jumped back to Avignon, hearing in the nick of time that it wasn't a through train to Marseille. Bought a short-distance ticket en route to Marseille & bluffed. Then train to Aix en Provence, where I crashed at about 7pm in the lee of a block of apartments. Yet again, I got a far better night's sleep in the open air than my last night in Beaumes.
* We had a glass jar with the praying mantis from Mont Ventoux, and the scorpions we'd found inside and outside the 'batcave' - the name with which we'd baptised our five-star accommodation.
Tuesday 23rd October 1984
Got an early start for a change. Found a good place to hitch and got one lift all the way to Nice. From Nice I hitched with a bloke going all the way to Florence only he dropped me off at Menton. From there I took the train to Monaco and spent the rest of the day sightseeing. In the evening I went to an English bar where I was able to drink British beer in a quite false atmosphere (the bar was full of the yachting set). Then to the station to pick up my sleeping bag from the locker, then dossed in the deserted beach bar that Bernie had told me about.