A letter from Barcelona
Viv Quarry
Barcelona is a city that seems to have a pride in itself, and after living and working there for nearly a year I think this pride is largely justified. It is the second largest city in Spain, with a population of around two million, capital of the region of Catalonia and a major sea port. It nestles in a plain between the mountains and the Mediterranean and has a history dating back to Roman times.
The first impression one gets of the city is of hustle and bustle, hooting cars driving on the wrong side of the road - often at break-neck speed - and in the summer months an intense heat that emphasizes the pollution in the air from factories and traffic. But if you take time to explore, there is another side to Barcelona. It is dotted with tranquil sleepy parks where the sound of traffic is reduced to a distant hum, and beautiful 'placas' where people can sit and talk or just watch the elegant fountains. There is some incredible architecture to see, particularly the works of Anton Gaudi, whose undulating facades and surreal adornments are a delight to the eye. The height of this uniqueness can be found at the church of the Sagrada Familia, with its eight main spires and fantastic decorations.
The most important feature, though, of any city or town is the general character of its people. The port has made the heart of Barcelona both liberal-minded and cosmopolitan, but outside the centre the people are, on the whole, Catalans, a race normally polite and reserved, yet always ready to celebrate with uninhibited gusto when the opportunity arises. Spain has more 'fiesta' holidays than any other European country, and as well as the official celebration days, each region and small district within the city has its own week of fiesta, when streets close, music and champagne flow, and people - old and young together, dance in the roadway. The most important fiestas in Barcelona are 'the Merced' in September, St. Joan in June, and the carnival in February. During these days there are open air music concerts, film shows and tremendous firework displays all free and open to everyone.
1992 is Olympic year for Barcelona; a decision on the whole welcomed by its inhabitants. There are grandiose plans for cleaning and smartening up the city, and I only hope the planners don't go too far in their efforts to impress the world, and that commercialism doesn't come before humanity.
We shall see. But whatever the benefits and ills of the Games in six year's time, Barcelona is, and I hope will remain, an interesting and exciting city, where people are happy to 'let their hair down' every so often, and where strangers are welcome to join them.
Author's note:
This article was written for and published by a local magazine, near Viv's family house in England, called 'The Priston & Farmborough Link' (edited by Viv's mum). This article appeared in the magazine in 1986. Viv spent three years living and working in Barcelona, and along with Rio de Janeiro, it will always be, for him, one of the best cities in the world in which to live.